The Cathedral of Our Lady (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal ) towers over Antwerp in all its Gothic glory, lacy, delicate, and reaching upward toward heaven as all great Gothic church architecture aspired to do, carrying the prayers and reverence and awe of medieval congregations skyward.
photo above by G. Lanting courtesy of Wikimedia
There has been a church on the site since the 9th century, long before the Cathedral of Our Lady was begun in 1352. While construction ended in 1521, the cathedral was never to be completed as originally designed.
The “Westworks” (the western towers) would forever be somewhat lopsided since only one tall tower was ever completed. The other tower framing the beautiful west entrance portal is stunted and obviously unfinished. Even so, the cathedral is a beautiful site with its one tower rising to 125 meters (403 feet). It is said to be the largest cathedral in the Benelux.
The “Westworks” (the western towers) would forever be somewhat lopsided since only one tall tower was ever completed. The other tower framing the beautiful west entrance portal is stunted and obviously unfinished. Even so, the cathedral is a beautiful site with its one tower rising to 125 meters (403 feet). It is said to be the largest cathedral in the Benelux.
As with many Roman Catholic churches throughout the Low Countries religious conflict took its toll. In 1566 and 1581, Protestants destroyed a large part of the cathedral interior and a number of artistic treasures were destroyed, removed or sold.
Antwerp had joined the rebellion against the rule of Habsburg Spain and the city became the capital of the Dutch Revolt. Not only was the revolt a Protestant rebellion but had become a revolt of all Dutch provinces.
When the winds of war finally blew the other way, most of the Flanders and the Duchy of Brabant, including Brussels, had been recaptured by King Phillip of Spain by 1584 and a year later, Antwerp was again under Catholic control and the Cathedral of Our Lady was restored.
Antwerp had joined the rebellion against the rule of Habsburg Spain and the city became the capital of the Dutch Revolt. Not only was the revolt a Protestant rebellion but had become a revolt of all Dutch provinces.
When the winds of war finally blew the other way, most of the Flanders and the Duchy of Brabant, including Brussels, had been recaptured by King Phillip of Spain by 1584 and a year later, Antwerp was again under Catholic control and the Cathedral of Our Lady was restored.
The cathedral suffered one last effort to destroy it in 1794, when the French revolutionaries who conquered the region plundered the cathedral and inflicted serious damage. Prior to the French Revolution, various guilds maintained altars in the cathedral. These altars were adorned with paintings and sculptures by the best artists and artisans of the day.
By the 19th century, some of the masterpieces of Peter Paul Rubens and other Antwerp master painters were being returned from Paris to Antwerp. Some returned to the cathedral, and some were donated to the museum. Throughout the course of the 19th century, the church was completely restored and refurnished.
By the 19th century, some of the masterpieces of Peter Paul Rubens and other Antwerp master painters were being returned from Paris to Antwerp. Some returned to the cathedral, and some were donated to the museum. Throughout the course of the 19th century, the church was completely restored and refurnished.
As you walk through, the interior you see today reflects the many restorations. The soaring Gothic lines and the delicate vaulted ceilings of the nave and six aisles are adorned by exuberant Baroque plasterwork and sculpture from later renovations. The plain white walls create a calm and peaceful atmosphere and are the perfect background for the stunning stained glass windows and the three magnificent colorful altarpieces of Peter Paul Rubens (Descent from the Cross - 1612, Elevation of the Cross – 1610, The Resurrection Triptych – 1612).
(above)
Assumption of the Virgin Mary
by Peter Paul Rubens 1626
Assumption of the Virgin Mary
by Peter Paul Rubens 1626
You can see some of the returned altar-pieces on temporary loan from the Royal Museum of Fine Arts. They are on display throughout the cathedral, though not in their original locations. The paintings hang high over the nave and aisles and the figures in them to look down upon you as you gaze up at them just as they would have looked down upon religious pilgrims centuries ago.
(above)
Altarpiece of Saint Luke's Guild 1602
Saint Luke Painting the Virgin Mary
by Maerten de Vos, Otto van Veen, and Ambrosius Francken
Altarpiece of Saint Luke's Guild 1602
Saint Luke Painting the Virgin Mary
by Maerten de Vos, Otto van Veen, and Ambrosius Francken
(above)
The Raising of the Cross
by Peter Paul Rubens c. 1610
The Raising of the Cross
by Peter Paul Rubens c. 1610
(above)
Altarpiece of the Cabinet Makers c.1622
The Preaching of Saint John the Baptist
by Hendrick van Balen
Altarpiece of the Cabinet Makers c.1622
The Preaching of Saint John the Baptist
by Hendrick van Balen
Considering this cathedral has been its restored several times over centuries, I felt it was only appropriate that they were doing some restoration work when we were there too! It is rare, that a tourist has the opportunity to watch while experts use their tiny brushes and tools to remove whitewash and bring back the vibrant colors of the frescoes beneath or see them dangling at amazing heights to work on the vaulted ceilings, plasterwork or windows. We were incredibly lucky to have an opportunity to see them performing their jobs and it added a whole new appreciation for these dedicated conservationists.
I never get tired of wandering through cathedrals, and The Cathedral of Our Lady is now added to our list of beautiful sacred places everyone should visit.
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